Mohinga (pronounced exactly as it’s spelt), is the national dish of Burma. It’s really a breakfast dish, but people eat it all day long.
The easiest way to describe it is like a fish chowder. Think of it as Cullen Skink with a twist. Everyone’s mother’s mohinga is the best, and everyone’s mother has her own special recipe. And all over Burma, everybody young, old, rich and poor gather for their morning mohinga, perched on teeny tiny plastic children's chairs and tables.
It's tricky to go to Burma at the moment, but you can make it at home. There are quite a few ingredients, but don’t be put off–it actually isn’t that difficult, and it’s delicious. It’s also an excuse to explore an Asian supermarket.
This recipe comes from the Rangoon Sisters who most of our Burmese foodie recommendations come from because their book is a triumph. It's a simplified version of the traditional classic, using ingredients you'll be able to get hold of (catfish not being abundantly available in the UK). And if you’re instantly hungry, head down to on of the three Lahpet restaurants around London for their take on the classic.
Let’s get fishy….
Serves 4-6
Ingredients
Soup base:
2 tbsp rice flour
6 cloves garlic, peeled
1 thumb-sized piece ginger, peeled
3 lemongrass stalks
6 tbsp oil (vegetable, sunflower, or peanut)
3 medium onions, thinly sliced
1 tbsp paprika
2 tsp turmeric powder
1–2 tsp chilli powder
1 tsp shrimp paste (optional)
2–3 tbsp fish sauce, plus extra to season
400 g tin pilchards in brine (not ketchup) – or tinned sardines if pilchards aren’t available
300 g shallots, peeled
Black pepper to taste
To serve:
400 g dried rice vermicelli (0.8–1 mm), cooked, rinsed, and kept in cold water
3 limes, cut into wedges
Garlic oil
Chilli flakes or chilli flakes in oil
6 hard-boiled eggs, halved
Coriander leaves
A batch of crispy chana dal crackers, broken up (see The Rangoon Sisters cookbook, p. 148)
Method
1. Toast the rice flour
In a dry frying pan over medium heat, toast the rice flour for 3–5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Transfer to a plate and set aside.
2. Prepare aromatics
Crush garlic and ginger into a paste (using a pestle & mortar or blitz in a food processor). Trim about 5 cm off the thinner end of lemongrass stalks, peel off the tough layer, then bash the remaining stalks with a pestle or rolling pin to release aromas.
3. Cook aromatic base
Heat oil in a large casserole over medium heat. Add sliced onions and cook for about 5 minutes until soft. Stir in garlic-ginger paste and cook for 1 minute, then add lemongrass.
4. Add spices & fish
Stir in paprika, turmeric, chilli powder, shrimp paste (if using), and 2–3 tbsp fish sauce. Add the tin of pilchards (including the brine) and mash the fish into the mixture.
5. Thicken & simmer
Add the toasted rice flour and mix well to prevent sticking. Pour in about 1.2 L of water and add the whole peeled shallots. Bring everything to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer gently, uncovered, for 1 hour—stirring occasionally.
6. Finish soup
After cooking, remove the lemongrass stalks. Season with a good grinding of black pepper and adjust saltiness with extra fish sauce as needed.
7. Serve
Distribute drained rice noodles into serving bowls. Ladle over the hot soup. Finish each bowl with a squeeze of lime, a drizzle of garlic oil, chilli to taste, and topping with halved boiled eggs, coriander leaves, and broken chana dal crackers. Serve immediately.
